Looking for a quick beginner’s guide to how to canoe the BWCA, Minnesota’s Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness? For everything from route planning, permits, and what to pack, this is the ultimate beginner’s guide to canoeing the the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness!

Why this blog? Hi there! My name is Maddy and I’m an outdoor guide and writer committed to exploring the Midwest! I’ve spent plenty of time exploring Northern Minnesota and the Boundary Waters and working with outfitters, and I’m so happy to be showing you around!

Oh hi there! This website uses affiliate links! That means if you choose to make a purchase based on my recommendation, I make a small kickback at no additional cost to you. 

JUNE 2024 UPDATE: Heavy rain has lead to closures and washouts! Be sure to check that your permit hasn’t been changed/rescheduled. On a more general safety note, be aware that higher water levels in this heavy rain year leads to increased risk. Rapids will be stronger as will the current near rapids. Some portages may be washed out or flooded. Always choose the most conservative route, and know that it is okay, even smart to turn around as soon as you start to suspect you may be pushing at the edge of your skills or comfort level. ALWAYS WEAR YOUR LIFEJACKET/PFD.

Overall, coming from a local outdoor guide (me), summer 2024 with la nina conditions is shaping up to be a challenging weather year with lots of storms, wind, cold weather, and rain. The mosquitos and ticks are off the charts, the water levels are high. Come prepared for challenging conditions, and don’t be afraid to call your permit issuer to ask for reroute advice as needed. Stay safe out there!

Leave no Trace in the BWCA:

Northern Minnesota is the ancestral homeland of the Anishinaabe Indigenous People, and we are all guests on their land. Be aware when recreating on the North Shore that many sites have historical and cultural significance and should be treated with exceptional respect and care. Avoid hiking on unofficial trails as it may contribute to erosion, and only park where official parking spots are available, rather than make new parking spots widening roads. Take care not to damage trees and other plant life, even if they seem to be blocking the view. 

All trash, including toilet paper, orange peels, banana peels, etc, needs to be packed out. Some routes in the BWCA including day trip routes are rigorous; be sure to pack enough food and water for your group. Cell service is not guaranteed in the area; neither is a quick rescue in the event of an emergency. To learn more about the general principles of Leave No Trace, click here.

In the BWCA an in-person quiz on local Leave No Trace and BWCA rules is required to pick up your permit. 

FAQ: Wait is it BWCA or Boundary Waters?

A: Minnesota’s Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness is often abbreviated as BWCA or BWCAW, but is also often referred to simply as “the Boundary Waters”. Don’t stress it too much, no matter what you say folks up this way will know what you mean!

The Ultimate Guide to Planning a BWCA Trip:

From permitting to outfitters, to suggested routes, here is everything you need to know about planning your Boundary Waters Trip!

1) How does permitting in the BWCA work?

Permits are required in all seasons to enter the BWCA.

For overnight trips between May 1st and September 30th you will need to reserve a permit in advance online through recreation.gov. A limited number of groups are allowed to enter via each entry point per day (there is no longer a BWCAW lottery; permits are first come, first serve). 

While permits open generally on the last day of January, if you keep a flexible schedule and are open to a variety of entry points, you can often find a last minute trip option. Still, the most popular dates and entry points (like Clearwater Lake, fourth of July weekend), often fill very quickly. There’s no need to panic plan unless you have a very specific trip in mind. 

If you are renting a canoe from an outfitter the outfitter may also be able to book and issue your permit for you. Section on BWCA outfitters below. 

Outside of May 1st through September 30th and for day usage in the BWCA permits are self-issue at the entry point and free.

Read a full guide to BWCA permits here.

What do BWCA permits cost?

Overnight BWCA permits in the on season cost a reservation fee of $6 per group (one quota permit) plus an additional $16 per adult or $8 per child/senior. 

How do I pick up my BWCA permit?

To pick your BWCA permit, you must visit the issue station specified on your permit; when you reserved your permit, you will have specified an in person permit issuer location to visit. Remember to allow yourself extra time to pick up this permit in person, and pass the wilderness principles verbal quiz based on the video required to view before entering the BWCA.

2) What BWCA Outfitter should I use?

Your Boundary Waters Outfitter can help you with everything from renting a canoe and outdoors gear to transport and booking permits. Here are some outfitters in the BWCA to consider and what they offer. Usually you can pick up your permit directly from the outfitter, and specify this in your permit purchasing process.

A non exhaustive list of BWCA outfitters:

Tuscarora Lodge & Canoe Outfitter: cabins, canoe outfitting, gear rental, transport, ect. 

Good for routes off the Gunflint Trail including Seagull Lake, Tuscarora, and Frost River Loop, ect. 

Voyageur Canoe Outfitters: cabins, canoe outfitting, gear rental, transport, ect. At the end of the Gunflint Trail, great for anyone looking to cross into the Quetico (Canada’s BWCA). Useful canoe trip route finder on website

Clearwater Outfitters: gear rental, lodge, bunkhouse, food, transport, ect. Located on Clearwater Lake, one of the most popular BWCA entry points. 

Border Lakes Tour Company: fully-outfitted guided canoe trips in the BWCA.

Sawbill Outfitters: Partial outfitting and BWCA access to some of the best smaller lakes loops in the BWCA.

Ely Outfitting Company: Full outfitting, Guided Trips, closest to Ely and western BWCA access.

Piragis: Fully outfitting, guided trips, popular gear store, closest to Ely and Western BWCA. 

3) What should I pack to canoe the BWCA?

Check out my full list of recommended gear from six years of working as an overnight wilderness guide & travel writer

Weather in the BWCA can be wildly variable! The good news is, you can fit a lot in a canoe as long as you’re willing to portage it. Here’s what I recommend packing for your BWCA trip beyond your canoe & food:

• 2 lightweight, long hiking pants. I wear a size 8 and am short, and find the REI trailmade to be super flattering as well as the Kuhl freeflex. For cooler weather trips (May, June, September) you may want to go with the hardier Fjallraven pants. 
• A fleece. Any fleece will do, but I really love my Patagonia Synchilla
• Wool baselayers. Five years of heavy paddling and my Smartwool baselayers are the only wool baselayers I’ve had that have really stood the test of time. For seven days, pack four baselayer tops. 
• Good portage shoes. Your feet will get wet. I actually do not recommend Keens or hiking sandals. You will get rocks in your shoes and it will hurt. Instead, an old pair of running shoes is probably your best bet. Pair with Darn Tough hiking socks and pack at least five pairs.
• hiking sandals/ camp shoe
• Quick dry shots: I like Patagonia Baggies
• A puffy jacket. It can be cool even in the summer, especially evenings. My partner Andy (also a wilderness guide) swears by the Patagonia Nano Puff. I like my Helly Hansen Liftloft. 
• If camping, a tent, packable sleeping bag (Nemo Disco) and pad (comfortable sleeping pad): Read my budget tent recommendations here!
• A canoe pack. Check to see if your outfitter will provide one for you
• A raincoat. I love the Moss Raincoat from Helly Hansen; It’s affordable, cute, and super durable.
• Cook kit: Jetboil (1-2 people) Whispherlite (3+ people)

4) What are the best routes in the Boundary Waters for beginner canoe campers?

There are hundreds of potential routes through the BWCA! Friends of the BWCA has put together a very detailed guide to over 50 different routes: access their guide here!

For the best BWCA routes for beginners, look for routes with few portages on smaller lakes. Many or long portages, or parts of the routes where you’ll carry your canoe and gear over land between lakes, can make a canoe route much more difficult. 

Larger lakes are prone to more wind and may prove hazardous for beginner canoeists.

5) What are the most beautiful canoe routes in the BWCA?

There are so many beautiful routes in the BWCA! For some of the best routes, look for routes with access to hiking trails like the Border Route Trail as well. 

For example, canoeing Duncan and Rose Lakes, one of the most popular BWCA routes will take you to Rose Falls and easy access to some of the most beautiful Border Route Trail overlooks. 

Also popular and beautiful is Clearwater Lake with large palisades, or Saganaga Lake with many islands and across the Canadian Border Pictographs. 

6) I missed my BWCA Permit. Where can I canoe camp instead?

Missed your BWCA Permit? No worries! There are plenty of places to camp in the Superior National Forest, no permit required. 

Look into base-camping on Two Island Lake, or off the Sawbill Trail. There are also several paddle-in campsites in the Superior National Forest such as those on Devilfish Lake, Greenwood Lake, Bearskin Lake, Cascade Lake, and more. Be aware that these sites are first, come, first serve, and accessible to powerboats as well. 

7) What do I need to have a safe canoe trip in the BWCA?

Looking for the basics of canoe camping safety in the BWCA? Here are a few quick things to keep in mind before tackling a canoe camping trip:

• You will not have cell service in the BWCA. Carry three alternate ways to call for help, such as a Garmin InReach, signaling mirror and whistle
• Dress for a variety of weather situations! Pack your clothes in dry bags, so they stay dry in an emergency, and avoid wearing cotton, which stays very cold when wet. 
• Consider taking a Wilderness First Aid Course
• Always wear your PFD or lifejacket! It is nearly impossible to put a PFD on from the water
• Don’t be afraid to bail early if need be

When in doubt, consider hiring a guide to help! I recommend my friends at Border Lakes Tour Company.

8) How concerned about bears should I be in the BWCA?

In the Boundary Waters you’re in bear country! For the most part, you can minimize bear encounters by storing your food properly in a bear resistant container and/or bear hang. 

Be sure to put all smellables including toothpaste in your bear container.

Personally, I recommend and Ursack, which is basically a bear proof bag, and a bear hang. 

In general, you don’t need to be worried about bears but you should be aware. Bear attacks in the BWCA are pretty much unheard of, but bear “encounters” are common. Read more about bears in the BWCA at Friends of the Boundary Waters. 

9) Where can I book a guided tour in the BWCA?

Check out Border Lakes Tour company for guided BWCA trips!

Explore more Midwest Adventures:

• Explore one of the best state parks in the Midwest for hikers, Tettegouche State Park
• Love paddling? You’ll love exploring Wisconsin’s beautiful Apostle Islands
• Discover all the best things to do in Grand Marais, MN (written by someone who has lived there!)

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