How to Kayak ASTOUNDING Desolation Sound
September 11, 2022
Looking for the most beautiful, beginner-friendly sea kayaking destination out there? Desolation Sound in British Columbia is one of the most stunning paddling destinations in the world, with overnight sea kayaking routes that cater to beginners and experienced kayakers alike.
From hidden coves, to fjords, to alpine to ocean waterfalls, come & explore the a-STOUND-ing kayaking Desolation Sound has to offer! (Get it?? astounding… like sound? Not funny? Okay, I’ll stop.)
How to Sea Kayak Desolation Sound:
Desolation Sound and the surrounding waters are the traditional homelands of the Tla’amin and Klahoose First Nations.
There are many relevant cultural and historical sites throughout the region; as a result it is of the utmost imperative that visitors be mindful of their impact, including proper waste disposal, use of only designated campsites, and leaving the land and water as you found it.
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Where is Desolation Sound?
Desolation Sound is located “at the end of the road”, or literally where Highway 1 meets the Pacific north of Vancouver in British Columbia, Canada. To get to Desolation Sound, you’ll need to take two ferries north from Vancouver toward Powell River. From here, head to the tiny town of Lund, British Columbia. Lund is the gateway to Desolation Sound!
Where Can I Rent a Kayak in Desolation Sound?
Sea Kayak rentals are available from Terracentric Coastal Adventures. They provide paddles, PFDs (lifejackets) and sea kayaks— everything you need to get started on your overnight kayaking adventure!
While in general the waters of Desolation Sound are warmer and calmer than that of the open Pacific or Strait of Georgia, keep in mind that you are still paddling on the ocean. Low pressure systems will bring colder weather, wind, rain, and waves. Inexperienced overnight ocean paddlers should consider booking a guided tour for the safest and best experience sea kayaking Desolation Sound.
Where Can I Book A Guided Kayaking Tour of Desolation Sound?
Powell River Sea Kayak offers guided kayak tours of Desolation Sound and the north Discovery Islands. They offer both glamping-style tours base-camping from a cabana, expedition-style adventures, and everything in between! Rentals are also available through Powell River Sea Kayak.
What Should I Pack for Desolation Sound Kayaking?
Desolation Sound has a reputation for being a part of the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia, but don’t be deceived! Cold, rainy days still occur even in the height of summer.
For an overnight sea kayaking trip in British Columbia, I recommend packing:
- A full sea kayaking kit, including a PDF, paddle and spare, VHF radio, wetsuit/drysuit, bilge pump, paddle float, spray skirt, flare, emergency signaling device.
- Wool long underwear and wool shirt
- Loose-fitting, quick dry camp pants (I swear by this pair)
- Quick-dry shorts
- A synthetic puffy jacket
- A layering fleece
- A camp stove/ cooking equipment
- Binoculars for wildlife/navigation
Looking for a detailed guide on how to pack a sea kayak and what to pack for kayak camping? I’ve got you covered!
How Do I Get Permits for Desolation Sound?
Permits are required within Desolation Sound and the Copeland Islands, but are not required in the Redonda Islands, Homfray Channel, Toba Inlet, and surrounding inlets and channels. Traditionally on guided tours, your outfitter will take care of the permit for you.
A self-registration/pay kiosk is available in Lund. Fees are $5/person per night.
Register for a permit online through the BC Parks Registration System. A permit does not reserve a campsite, and the most popular campsites (ie, Curme Islands) may be occupied on busy weekends. There is no overflow camping, but there are plenty of alternate campsites within a short paddling distance.
When reserving a permit, be sure to review the current rules and regulations regarding fire bans. Even driftwood and low-tide fires may also be banned locally.
Learn how to sea kayak camp in 15 hacks for beginner kayak camping
How to Sea Kayak Desolation Sound:
To access Desolation Sound, put in either at Lund or Okeover Inlet Government Dock. Okeover Inlet will take you straight into the heart of Desolation Sound with minimum exposure to open water. Lund will take you up past the Copeland Islands with exposed water and potential for turbulence around Sarah Point. Both launch points offer long term parking.
Once inside Desolation Sound, you’ll find mostly protected warm water with mountain views! There are multiple popular campsites— Curme Islands are the most popular with arguably the best views.
We chose to camp instead at Bold Head, which has a longer, steeper gear carry, but also beautiful campsites and a nice spot to swim. Even on a busy weekend, we had the entirety of Bold Head to ourselves. Within Desolation Sound you’re likely to spot other paddlers, but it was nowhere near as busy as a popular national park. Outside of Desolation Sound and the Copeland Islands, we saw no one but the occasional fishing boat for days.
All campsites within Desolation Sound use wooden tent pads and there is no overnight camping. Bear boxes are provided on mainland campsites.
Currents within Desolation Sound are mild, but still may effect your trip; consult a chart and tide tables before departing.
Love reading about kayaking, adventure, and Desolation Sound? Read about the 70 days we spent sea kayaking on the Pacific, including this section of Desolation Sound, here!
Sea Kayaking the Copeland Islands:
The Copeland Islands are the perfect gateway to Desolation Sound, just a 2-4 mile paddle out of Lund, British Columbia. The Copelands are rugged little islands with sweeping views of the Strait of Georgia to the west. Here, the summer sun sets over the Discovery Islands to the north west and arbutus trees dot the shores.
While just a quick paddle from Lund, the Copeland Islands feel like true wilderness and are the perfect place to pitch a tent for the evening.
The Copeland Islands are also one of the only true beginner overnight sea kayaking trips in the area! The paddle out to the islands is short and largely protected from open swell. While Thulin Passage has noticeable tidal currents, there are no large tide rips, eddies, or particularly strong currents. If going from the Copelands into Desolation Sound, currents around Sarah Point may prove difficult.
Ease of access does not mean the Copeland Islands are a busy sea kayaking destination; while we saw other groups while we were staying here, there was still plenty of space and the illusion of isolated camp sites.
Sea Kayaking the Teakerne Arm and West Redonda Island
The vast majority of visitors stay with in the Desolation Sound Marine Park, but did you know there is world class sea kayaking just north of Desolation Sound?
Once you leave Desolation Sound Marine Park, all campsites are wilderness camping and not managed by any park (unless of course you head toward Cortes or Quadra Island; there you will find more marine parks). This means that there are no pit toilets, established tent sites, or fees. Once you leave Desolation Sound Marine Park, conditions become more challenging, rescue becomes less likely, and the scenery becomes even more beautiful.
I recommend a guided tour for all but experienced coastal kayakers.
The Teakerne Arm is the easiest detour from Desolation Sound into the wilderness. Tucked away on West Redonda Island, the Teakerne Arm is home to a few beautiful wilderness campsites, mountain views, and a waterfall plunging straight into the sea! Be sure to swing by the Refuge Cove General Store, the only emergency supply/evacuation option, for ice cream on your way up!
Sea Kayaking the Homfray Channel and Toba Inlet, North of Desolation Sound
The Homfray Channel and Toba Inlet are the stuff of sea kayaker dreams— dozens of alpine waterfalls into the ocean, deep purple mountain peaks, humpback whales and pods of orcas. Here, you’re 4-6 days paddle from the nearest town.
Currents in the Homfray Channel are generally mild, while currents at the mouth of Toba Inlet can run at several knots during peak ebb. Note that Toba Inlet is subject to strong Katabatic/Anabatic winds.
Book a guided overnight tour with Powell River Sea Kayak, or plan and outfit your own coastal kayaking adventure using resources available on wildcoast.ca.
Looking for more world-class kayaking destinations?
- Explore Washington’s beautiful San Juan Islands and search for orcas!
- Discover why the Great Lakes are a hidden sea kayaking paradise
- Access a full archive of free trail guides!
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