Looking to backpack Havasupai (Havasu Falls trail) in Arizona on the Havasupai Nation Reservation? Here is everything you need to know about backpacking Havasupai and Havasu Falls!

Why this blog? Hi there! My name is Maddy and I’ve been working as an outdoor wilderness guide and writer since 2018! I am committed to providing you good and accurate information to help you plan a successful wilderness trip!

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One of the most beautiful campsites in Havasu Canyon

How to Backpack Havasupai (Havasu Falls Trail) in the Grand Canyon:

Here, I’ll help you with everything you need to know about backpacking Havasu Falls Trail (known colloquially as “Havasupai”) from permits, logistics, training, packing, and more to the best times of day to start and finish your hike!

How to get Permits to backpack Havasupai:

Permits to hike in Havasupai can be found here! You must have a permit to hike here, and no day hiking is allowed. Trailhead access is strictly controlled; You will not get in without a permit. 

Permits cost $455 per person, and permits open on February 1st of every year, 8am AZ time, and sell out very quickly. In 2024, there was also a presale in mid February. In addition, on the same site linked above you can check the cancellations and transfer board to see if any permits are available. 

Note that for a group, all of the money for your reservation will come out of the trip leaders account, so make sure everyone is ready to pay up front if you get permits. Your designated trip leader (the person who booked the permits) will need to show photo ID to pick up the permits at Grand Canyon Caverns & Inn (more on this shortly). Only the trip leader can get your wristbands. 

What is the history of the Havasu Falls Trail:

The most interesting part of the Havasu Falls Trail, and the reason for the complex and expensive permitting process, is that the entirety of the hike is not actually located in Grand Canyon National Park, rather on the Havasupai Reservation.

The Havasupai people have lived in the Grand Canyon for over 1,000 years. For hundreds of years, the Havasupai, meaning “people of the blue green water”, utilized the entirety of the Grand Canyon. They spent summers in the canyon tending gardens, and winters on the Colorado Plateau hunting. In the 1920s, the Havasupai were forcibly removed from the Canyon by the National Parks Service and confined to Havasu Canyon and the village of Supai. Havasu Falls and the area between Havasu and Mooney Falls were taken for the National Parks Service, leaving the Havasupai with limited access to a sacred space once used for cremations.

left: backpacking down to Havasu Falls. right: Havasu Falls. Yes, the water really is that blue! It’s because Havasu Creek is feed by limestone deposits!

Still, it wasn’t until 1975 that the Falls area and a significant amount of land was returned to the Tribe with the stipulation that the area remain open to tourism. Not that the Havasupai had much choice anyhow— cut off from traditional hunting and farming land as well as spiritual areas, turning to tourism likely felt like the only option. It’s easy to imagine the complicated feelings towards tourists that would arise.

Today in the village of Supai, eight miles deep into the canyon with a population around 500, tourism is the biggest source of income. The extremely competitive permits to hike to the fabled blue green waterfalls run at $455 a person in 2024.

Note! Photography with in the village limits of Supai is not allowed. 

What is the Best time of year to Backpack Havasupai?

The best time of year to backpack Havasupai is late March-May, or September- October. Peak summer months are extremely hot, and there is almost no way to avoid doing the final mile of intense uphill in the peak heat of the sun. March and October may see some snow in the evenings or early mornings, but it is likely to melt quickly and occur only at the higher elevations and not in the canyon itself. 

I went in late March and it was pretty ideal— all the leaves were starting to green up, the nights were chilly but in a good way, it was warm enough to swim and never unbearably hot. That said, we did content with 60 mph winds one evening (stake down those tents!!) and our final mile to the parking lot ended with flurries of snow, which was pretty exciting! 

I would say if you’re from the Northern States like me (hi from Duluth!) stick to the cooler months like March, early April, and October. If you’re used to hiking in the heat, you’ll probably be find even as late as June. 

How Hard is the Havasu Falls Trail Hike?

Hiking Havasupai is a fairly difficult hike, and can become extremely difficult in higher temperatures.

Here are five things to know about the hike to Havasu Falls Campground:

1. The hike is just over 10-miles in to the campground, and the campground is about a mile long. Many of the best sites are at the end of the campground, but the farther in you hike the farther you are from drinking water. Total elevation loss/gain is 2,500 ft. 
2. The hike is almost all downhill on the way in, and all uphill on the way out. Bring three liters of water per person. Keep in mind that backpacking downhill is actually harder on your body than backpacking uphill— the uphill might be mentally exhausting and have you wheezing, but the downhill is likely to have you hurting the next day. Even if you don’t feel like you need it, take breaks on the downhill
3. You need to pack out all of your trash! This is a canyon; that means that everything you leave is likely to stay in the canyon for a very long time. Things take even longer to biodegrade in the desert. Everything— orange peels, toilet paper, wrappers, apple cores— that comes in with you needs to be packed out. 
4. You will likely get blisters on the way in!! The continuous downhill paired with the heat makes for sweaty feet which is prime time for blisters! Tape your feet for blisters in advance using KT Tape. 
5. You’ll want to start and leave as early in the morning as possible (first light!) to avoid hiking in the heat of the day. This is especially true fo the hike out, where the last mile of incline to Hualapai Hilltop can be especially brutal if in full sun. If you can hit the Hilltop section before noon, you will likely still have some shade most times of the year. 

Quick summary of how hard it is to backpack Havasupai:

Overall, this hike is totally doable for most avid hikers, but not necessarily easy. As an outdoors guide and relatively frequent backpacker, I would rate this as moderate. We came in with virtually no training in March to do it, and hurt a lot the last two miles on the way in due to inadequate breaks, but didn’t struggle on the way up.

backpacking down into Havasu Canyon on Havasupai Sovereign Land.

That said, there were definitely folks with less experience really struggling. Know your body, and your own experience level.

Note! You’re on Sovereign Land! When backpacking on the Havasupai Reservation, you’re on Sovereign Nation Land. This means you are subject to different laws than you would be in the US. Be sure to read all of the information listed on your permit

How Hard is the Hike to Mooney Falls & Beaver Falls?

I’ve read a lot of accounts on the internet of people saying the hike to Mooney Falls— a  day hiking option in Havasupai that includes scaling a slick, muddy cliff with only the aid of wet chains— is totally doable for a seasoned hiker. 

I work as an outdoors guide and chose not to descend and would not formally recommend to anyone hiking down to those falls. The amount of risk you choose to take on is your own choice, but personally, that was not an amount of risk I was comfortable with. 

Instead, I spent the day exploring the top of the falls, and the other beautiful waterfalls along the way. To hike to Beaver Falls, you scale the cliff down to Mooney then continue through the canyon. It’s about five miles round trip.

Images of Mooney Falls you can capture without descending the chains section of the hike. All of the wet that you see is waterfall spray.

Overall, the hike is not strictly speaking difficult, but there is no way the hike to Mooney Falls would be allowed to be an official hike in a National Park due to liability.

What should I pack to backpack Havasupai?

For Havasupai, you’ll need to pack backpacking gear like a tent, sleeping pad, sleeping bag, cooking gear, clothes, and more. Not an experienced backpacker or looking for a detailed and lightweight packing guide?

Click here for a detailed guide to packing for Havasupai for beginner backpackers!

Getting to Havasupai to backpack the Havasu Falls Trail:

Here are some logistics to consider for backpacking the Havasu Falls Trail:

• You’ll need to check in the day before your trip before five pm, or day of your trip after 8am, at the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn. I recommend checking in the day before and staying overnight, then getting a sunrise time start at the trailhead. 
• Alcohol is illegal on the Havasupai Reservation. Also outlawed is drugs, cliff jumping, and drones. 
• If you’re flying in, consider flying into Vegas early the day before your hike, and renting a car to drive out. (The packing list I’ve created for this hike includes how to pack a backpacking bag for flying)
• There are limited close dining options if you’re arriving in the evening. 
• Fill up on gas before you head to Grand Canyon Caverns Inn; it’s almost one hours drive to the trailhead. 
• Pack a pair of comfy slide on shoes and a set of clean clothes to leave in the car for when you’re done hiking.
• I do not recommend trying to hike out and fly out on the same day. The added stress of needing to finish your hike and drive to the airport to catch a flight will make you very unhappy. Just stay in a hotel in between. Just do it. 

Flying into Vegas for your flight? Check out these other hiking ideas near Las Vegas to make a road trip of it!

left: scenes from camping in Havasupai. Right: one of the first stunning glimpses of Havasu Creek. Can you spot the cell tower?? Everywhere you can see this tower, you’ll have a few bars of service to text your mom that you’re still alive! In general, this is just in and near the village of Supai, and up at the Hualapai Hilltop.

Where can I get accurate weather for camping and backpacking Havasupai? 

You can find the official NOAA forecast for the nearby Havasupai Gardens Campground here. This forecast will be accurate and similar to what you will experience in the canyon, but expect the Havasu Falls campground to be warmer to the tune of 10 degrees F or so. Wind and weather forecasts will be similar.

Flash Flood and Rain Risk in Havasupai:

If you’re planning on backpacking Havasupai, you have probably seen videos of the brown falls and flash flood evacuation. 

FAQ: When do I need to worry about flash flooding in Havasupai?

A little bit of rain in the forecast does NOT mean Havasupai and the campground will flash flood! The Rangers down in the canyon are very helpful and are monitoring to make sure everyone is safe, so rest easy. If there is a risk, they will help evacuate the campground. That said, keep in mind that rain elsewhere in the watershed can cause flash flooding, and all hiking is done at your own risk. Rain in the forecast does not necessarily mean you should cancel your Havasupai trip, but definitely hike with care. If there is rain at all in the forecast, don’t make the trek to Beaver Falls and hang out at the upper falls instead!

While we were there, it rained and sleeted overnight, but we still woke up to beautiful blue waterfalls!

Is it worth the price to backpack Havasupai?

Is backpacking Havasupai worth the $455 permit price?

In my opinion, totally! This hike is beautiful, the trail is so fun, the waterfalls are awesome, and it’s a once in a lifetime backpacking destination. 

Keep in mind that the hike itself is on Havasupai Nation Land, and you are a guest on this trail. The town of Supai, home to 500 Havasupai people, Indigenous to the Grand Canyon but forcibly removed in the 1920s by the National Park Service, is located 8 miles into the canyon, and sees 30,000 visitors a year! 

One awesome fact about the Havasupai is that Havasupai language is still their first language!

It’s an absolute privilege to visit Havasu Canyon, and the $450 permit is what it costs for the hike to support the town of Supai and to make tourism possible in such a remote area.

Other things to to know about Backpacking Havasupai:

• Odds are, you won’t be camped right next to the water source. Bring a dromedary, or water bladder, to make your water trips easier.
• Critters are a problem! Protect your food with an Ursack. The Ursack is bear and critter proof with just one knot.
• Do I need to treat the water at Havasupai? There is spring water available at Havasu Falls Campground at Fern Spring. I did not treat the water; however that doesn’t mean you won’t want to. You know your own stomach! Consider using a Sawyer squeeze system to filter if you are concerned.
• One thing you definitely want is adventure sandals like Tevas.
• Bring a small, collapsable day pack for day hiking like the Cotopaxi Luzon series.

Plan your next adventure:

• Check out my packing list for Havasupai (Ultralight, beginner-friendly, and flying in!)
• Read my full Havasu Falls trip report here for more on what I experienced on my March 2024 trip as well as community discussion and planning!
• Looking to plan the perfect 7-day Washington Road Trip leaving from Seattle? I’ve got you covered!
• Outdoor gear is expensive! Here’s a guide to buying used and finding deals!

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